If you frequent the skincare aisle, you’ve likely spotted the term “actives.” But what are these ingredients, and what do they do? As powerhouse components in skincare products, actives deliver targeted benefits to your skin. 

What are active ingredients?

Active ingredients are compounds in skincare products that directly impact the skin’s appearance and health. Unlike inactive ingredients (preservatives, salts, etc.), which serve as carriers or stabilizers, actives work at the cellular level to address various skin concerns, making them fundamental to an effective skincare routine.

How do active ingredients work?

Active ingredients penetrate the skin’s surface and interact with skin cells, influencing various skin processes based on their chemical composition. 

Certain ingredients promote cell turnover by encouraging the shedding of dead skin cells and stimulating the production of new ones, resulting in a fresher, more even complexion. Exfoliants like alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) are well-known for this role. Similarly, ingredients such as retinoids and peptides, which help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, can stimulate collagen production.

Other active ingredients focus on calming and hydrating the skin. Anti-inflammatory actives, like niacinamide and chamomile extract, soothe redness and irritation, making them especially beneficial for sensitive or inflamed skin. 

Additionally, hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid and glycerin enhance the skin’s ability to retain moisture, which is essential for maintaining a plump, well-hydrated complexion.

Popular Active Ingredients (and Their Benefits)

By understanding how these ingredients work and selecting the right ones for your skin type, you can enhance your skincare routine and achieve healthier, more radiant skin. 

• Retinoids (Vitamin A Derivatives): Retinoids, including retinol, adapalene and tretinoin, are renowned for their anti-aging benefits. They promote cell turnover, reduce the appearance of fine lines and help improve skin texture. Retinoids are also effective in treating acne by preventing clogged pores.

• Vitamin C: Known for its brightening effects, Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that helps protect the skin from free radical damage, reduces hyperpigmentation and enhances overall radiance. It also supports collagen production, contributing to firmer skin.

• Hyaluronic Acid: This hydrating ingredient can hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water, making it a top choice for boosting skin moisture levels. It helps plump the skin and reduce the appearance of fine lines caused by dehydration.

• Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): Niacinamide is celebrated for its versatility. It helps to even out skin tone, reduce redness and strengthen the skin barrier. Additionally, it has anti-inflammatory properties that can benefit acne-prone skin.

• Salicylic Acid: A type of BHA, salicylic acid is excellent for treating acne. It penetrates the pores to exfoliate dead skin cells and reduce inflammation, making it effective for managing breakouts and blackheads.

Tips for Using Active Ingredients

When incorporating active ingredients into your skincare routine, follow these general tips to maximize their benefits and minimize potential side effects:

1. Perform a patch test before introducing a new active ingredient. This helps avoid an adverse reaction or sensitivity.

2. Start with one new active ingredient at a time. This allows you to monitor your skin’s response and avoids overwhelming it.

3. Apply active ingredients after cleansing and before moisturizing. Follow the recommended frequency for each product to avoid overuse.

4. Many actives, particularly retinoids and Vitamin C, can increase your skin’s sensitivity to sunlight. Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen daily to protect your skin from UV damage and prevent further skin issues.

5. For personalized advice and tailored recommendations, consult with your local board-certified dermatologist.

Get a Clear Understanding of Your Skin’s Needs

At Charleston Dermatology, our board-certified dermatologists help you unlock your skin’s potential. As a Lowcountry leader in skin care, our trusted team has an established legacy in providing unmatched, personalized care to patients across South Carolina. Contact us today to book your appointment and learn more about our medical, surgical and cosmetic dermatology services!